There are also premonitions of other obsessions of today, as one character complains of the trendy replacement of wine with designer water: “Oh, certainly society suffers from it intolerably; for now, instead of the social spirit of raillery that used to mantel over a glass of bright Burgundy, their conversation is become just like the spa water they drink, which has all the pertness and flatulence of champagne without its spirit or flavor.”